The other day I was interviewed on local radio. The subject was “Things To Do In Puerto Rico”, particularly as it relates to Puerto Rican museums. I’ve been working on a series for Puerto Rico By GPS about Puerto Rico’s Greatest Museums and it was more than fitting that we’d talk about it.
So I fired up ChatGPT and asked for “25 reasons why museums are a great option when visiting a foreign country”. I figured I’d get “more than enough meat” for an hour-long program.
Many people ask ChatGPT for finished articles and then wonder why their content doesn’t rank. Well guess what? Google can smell Ai content from a mile away. Instead, I ask for bullet points, use them as guidance and fill in the gaps with my own knowledge and experience.
Then again, if you don’t have any knowledge to start with, or any experience, that’s a different problem.
I was especially surprised by the first three points because they were the same that I’ve mentioned in my recent videos. Museums offer “insight into local culture”, “they provide a historical perspective” and “they’re great for rainy days”. After all, that third point was the reason why I started the museum series to begin with.
You see, on August 14th tropical storm Ernesto passed by Puerto Rico. At the time Ernesto was what Puerto Ricans call a “tormenta platanera”, meaning that it was only supposed to knock down a few plantain trees. Well, the next morning several Island municipalities were under water and half the Island had no power.
In all fairness, it rained a lot more than expected and Puerto Rico has been affected by a much more destructive storm for the last 39 moths. That storm is called LUMA Energy. Since the company took over the distribution of electric power in Puerto Rico things have gone from bad, to worse… to “worser”. Is that even a word?
Well, as you know, in January of 2023 I started a series covering every town in Puerto Rico. We started in the town of Carolina and went clockwise around San Juan. Then we did it again and again. By the end of 2023 we had covered 23 towns and in 2024 we have covered 11 so far.
So why leave San Juan out, you might ask? Because that’s where the blog started and we have lots of information about it. Even so, I occasionally revert to San Juan, like when I slammed the University Of Puerto Rico’s Botanical Garden (watch the video below). But I digress.
So there I was, with half the Island in the dark and several towns flooded (particularly the ones that I was supposed to visit next: (Naguabo and Humacao). So the idea of exploring the museums looked more and more appealing.
Puerto Rico has a wonderful network of museums covering practically every imaginable genre. And, as you’ll discover throughout this series, most are run by great outgoing people that have been more than happy to receive us and share their knowledge.
Our first experience was at the Museum of History, Anthropology and Art at the University of Puerto Rico’s Rio Piedras campus.. Albeit being Puerto Rico’s oldest museum, and one of the greatest (in my opinion), it has been affected by severe budget cuts and structural damage to half its building. You can read all about it here.
That said, the Museum of History, Anthropology and Art is home to what many consider to be Puerto Rico’s most important painting. It’s called “El Velorio” (The Wake), by Francisco Oller, and it hangs proudly in the museum’s east hall.
This time we visited a totally different museum. It’s called the Miramar Museum of Art and Design (Museo de Arte y Diseño de Miramar) and it’s located at 607 Cuevillas Street, in Santurce, Puerto Rico. The proper address would say “San Juan” instead of “Santurce”, but for us locals the museum is in Santurce which is a suburb of San Juan.
To make thinks simpler, museum management simply calls it “MADMi”.
If you’re staying in the San Juan, Condado or Isla Verde area just take State Road 26, get off at Exit 1, take Roberto H. Todd street going south, turn right at the corner of Juan Ponce De León Avenue and continue west until you reach the corner of Cuevillas street. Turn left and you’ll find the museum about a half a block down on your left hand side.
At first glance the early 20th century French Neoclassical structure, painted in bright pink, seems rather small for a museum. To me it resembles one of those old doll houses that little girls used to have when I was a kid.
But the glass and metal structure directly behind the original house, and an underground parking garage in the rear, ad more than enough space.
Many people approaching the house will attempt to enter through the door on the right side of the main facade. I know, because I did. There’s even a sidewalk that leads you straight to it. But the entrance to the museum is actually along the north side of the glass and metal structure.
When we got there many things caught our attention. To start with, the museum is an ultra modern glass building that contrasts sharply with the French Neoclassical facade. Not that the old section isn’t used, because that’s where most of the museum’s permanent collection and itinerating pieces are, but somehow you expect to enter an antique place and instead you are met by a modern one.
As I approached the front desk attendant, to ask for our guide, Mrs. Nadja de la Torre, I couldn’t ignore the painting behind her. It was a sign that read: “El Que Es Feliz No Jode”, which doesn’t quite have a direct translation to English. The closest approximation would be “he who is happy doesn’t give others any grief”. How true. I instantly liked these people!
Our host appeared a few minutes later and we started our tour. Mrs. de la Torre is the museum’s Education Coordinator. Last week’s guide —Mrs. Lisa Ortega Pol— simply referred to herself as “an educator”
and our definition at the beginning of this article’s accompanying video states that museums are places where you go to “LEARN” something. Are you detecting a pattern here?
There’s a set of twin doors on the right hand side of the reception area that leads to the first hall. Beyond this point you’re immersed in piece after piece of beautiful modern art, some of which belongs to the museum’s permanent collection and some that comes and goes in the form of itinerating exhibitions.
I’m not even going to try to explain the paintings because I am no art expert. Besides, that’s why God created “museum educators”.
You’ll find all sorts of pieces ranging from a collection of old bread toasters, antique tiles, an old HVLP spray gun, a Studebaker hood ornament, an old lawn chain and dozens and dozens of paintings of all sizes. There are also several timeline exhibits that further expand beyond the pieces. But believe me, there’s method to the madness. Everything has been carefully chosen and curated to tell a story and your museum attendant is there to help you decipher it.
The main mission of the museum is to cater to the needs of its immediate community, which includes three schools, two developments for the elderly and a well-to-do neighborhood. Therefore, their offerings range from regular exhibits to activities catering to children, the deaf and even the blind.
There’s a small classroom on the second level of the glass portion of the museum where children can actually “get their hands dirty” and create their own “masterpiece”. The bleachers towards the rear area of the first level are both a piece of art in their own right and a sitting area for events taking place in the museum. They’re even covered in graffiti like regular bleachers would be.
So how did this museum come to be, you might be asking? Well, the original house (the pink portion) was built in 1913. It belonged to judge Luis Méndez Vas and his wife María Bagur.
The young couple visited France and returned to the Island enamoured with French Neoclassical architecture. And, of course, like any good husband of the era would’ve done, the good judge had the house built for his loving María.
Several years later, when the couple passed away, the house was inherited by his son Eduardo Méndez Bagur, who in turn wrote into his will that upon his death the house would become a museum for the community of Miramar.
In case you’re confused, Miramar is the name of the area where the museum is located, which in turn is in Santurce, which in turn is in San Juan. Got it? You can learn more about the museum when you visit or on the museum website: https://www.madmi.org/en/museum.
Click on image to watch the video
So what about the red 1949 Studebaker pickup that’s in my video thumbnail? Did you think I’d forget about that? Is it even real? Well, the answer to both questions is no. I didn’t forget and it’s not real.
The red Studebaker pickup is actually a modern sculpture by Puerto Rican artist Miguel Luciano, made to resemble the original truck owned by Mr. Eduardo Méndez Bagur. Museum management wanted to honor Méndez-Bagur by restoring his original truck and exhibiting it at the museum. But the original vehicle was such a rust bucket that the mission was truly “impossible” (pardon the pun). So instead they commissioned Luciano to create an exact replica.
There’s nothing to rust in this piece. Even the bright green plantains and the machete in the truck’s bed are made of fiberglass.
Nonetheless, the piece is a conversation starter as no one would ever expect a bright red truck at an art museum.
As you leave the museum don’t forget to go by the gift shop where you’ll find genuine art pieces made by Puerto Rican hands. There’s nothing made in China at the store. There is, however, a great deal of educational material for children. Proceeds go to keep the museum running.
Museum hours are Tuesday through Saturday from 10:00am to 5:00pm. Admission is $5.00 for adults, $3.00 for students and children under three are free. You can also arrange tours with provisions for the deaf and the blind. However, this must be arranged in advance by contacting educacion@madmi.org.
For more information call 787–995-7063.
See you next time
©2024,Orlando Mergal, MA
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Bilingual Content Creator, Blogger, Podcaster,
Author, Photographer and New Media Expert
Tel. 787–750-0000, Mobile 787–306-1590