Across the San Fernando Square from the “Museo de los Gigantes”, and right in front of the San Fernando Church, where Roberto Clemente and Vera Zabala got married back on November 14, 1964, is the “Museo de Historia y Arte de Carolina”. That’s the Carolina Museum of History and Art.
At first glance it would seem strange to combine these two genres, but no other medium presents history in a clearer and succinct manner than art. It’s a graphical representation of the actual events as they unfolded. So what more could you ask for?
The museum tells the story of this “town of giants” from its very foundation, back on January 31, 1857, to the present day. And one would expect that, being that the museum is supposed to be all about Carolina. But what you wouldn’t necessarily expect is that it frames it inside the bigger picture of the history of Puerto Rico.
The “Museo de Tecnología y Arte” is part of the Carolina Cultural District, which also includes the “Galería de los Gigantes” (across the San Fernando square), Casa Escuté (to its west side), the “Museo del Cartel y la Gráfica Puertorriqueña” (Museum of the Puerto Rican Poster and Graphics, on the second level of Casa Escuté) and “El Museo del Niño” (the children’s museum, at a separate location).
The “Museo De Historia y Arte De Carolina” opened its doors in 2012 at a totally refurbished two storey building that was once a dilapidated halfway house. Your art experience starts from the minute you set foot on the sidewalk, where there are two luminous exhibitions: one about “violence against women” and the other about the “Puerto Rican Diaspora”. The building’s facade is also a piece of art in itself.
Upon entering the museum my wife and I met with our guide Raquel Upia, who proceeded to show us one of the most spectacular pieces in the entire museum. It’s called: “Mapa De Carolina” and it’s a two-storey-high modern sculpture showing the 13 wards that make up the township of Carolina as well as 10 busts of its most illustrious citizens. The piece is made of bronze, stainless steel and glass.
One of the negative critiques that most museums receive is that they’re full of “dead stuff”. In the minds of many people “if it’s in a museum it has to be dead”. But not here!!! In fact this museum has some of the most modern technology around, including 360° exhibits and holographic presentations.
From the “Mapa De Carolina” we went on to the “Sala Matices“ (or the “hue room”, if that makes any sense) where we learned all about the town of Carolina and what it has to offer. Did you know that Carolina is like a mini representation of the larger island of Puerto Rico. It has everything: forests, marine reserves, even a bioluminiscent lagoon! Hell, I lived in Carolina for 39 years and I didn’t know half of what I learned in a couple of hours at the “Museo de Historia y Arte”.
Then we met “the man” himself. Well, sort of. Leaving the “Sala Matices” theres a huge statue of “San Fernando”, honoring king Ferdinand III (the Saint), the only Spanish king to ever be canonized. And yes, he’s the patron saint of the city of Carolina. That’s why it’s actually called “San Fernando de la Carolina” (more on that in a minute).
Besides being a magnificent piece, carved by Puerto Rican sculptor Omar Ortiz, the statue of San Fernando is heaping with little morsels of information about the actual man’s life. Just walk around it and you’ll discover his birth date, when he was crowned, how many children he had, his code of arms, the fact that he was a musician and much much more. At first it isn’t obvious but its all there.
Then there’s the holographic exhibition. Wat an original way to tell the story of the town of Carolina. It’s like a two-person play between half visible people. The images come and go before your eyes and keep you glued to the story at all times. It was great!!!
And this was only the first floor…
After a short elevator ride we arrived at a glass window that offers a great view of the Old Town Hall, the “Museo de los Gigantes”, “Casa Escuté”, the San Fenando Square and the San Fernando Church. From there we went on to the “sala religiosa” (religious room) where you can see the most important piece of religious art in Puerto Rico, and possibly of the Americas.
It’s the “Cristo de los Ponce”, a polychrome figure commissioned by Juan Ponce de León himself in Spain and shipped to Puerto Rico in 1513 aboard the “Buenaventura”, a Spanish tall ship that sunk in on its way here. Polychrome is a form of art practiced for centuries in the Seville area.
Well, the thing is that somehow the figure found its way to the coast of Puerto Rico and eventually it was delivered to the Ponce family. After that it was placed in San José Church in Old San Juan.
Fast forward several centuries to 1872. The San Fernando Church in Carolina had been finished and the San José Church in Old San Juan was changing hands from the Dominican to the Franciscan order. They were also redoing the altar and the “old Christ” had been moved to Calle Cristo to install a “new Christ” at San José. Church.
Juan José de Machicote, who was the Mayor of Carolina, and also the Parish Priest, wrote a letter to the Franciscans requesting that the “old Cristo” be moved to Carolina. Since then “El Cristo de los Ponce” has had a permanent home in Carolina. The glass urn in which he rests was built separately by the people of Carolina.
Remember, Juan Ponce de León was the first governor of Puerto Rico. He also founded Old San Juan in 1851, the third oldest city in America after Santo Domingo de Guzmán (1496) and La Havana (1515). So there’s a great deal of history attached to this figure.
Then we arrived at the “Sala de Historia” (the history room) where —you guessed it— the entire history of Carolina (and in many cases Puerto Rico) is presented using al sorts of media. And it starts way before the white man, with the early Archaic, Arawak and Taíno settlers, and goes all the way to present day figures. It’s all there for you to learn and enjoy.
Then there’s the “Sala de Arte” (the art room) where once again the history of Carolina comes alive before you very eyes through paintings by Marí Curt, Tufinno, Marín and Cecilia Orta. There’s even a “post mortem” mask of Luis Muñoz Marín created by Omar Ortiz. Remember him? He was the Puerto Rican sculptor that created the Statue of San Fernando that you saw upon entering the building.
It’s all there. If you want to become an expert on the history of Carolina all you have to do is visit the “Museo de Historia y Arte” and the “Galería de los Gigantes” across the square. Each one will take you about two hours. And if you combine them with Casa Escuté (just a few steps to the west of the “Museo de Historia y Arte” you’ll have a cultural experience like no other.
Oh, and one last thing… On our way out of the museum we met with Mr. Celestino Ortiz Nieves. Who’s he? Well, he’s the museum’s museologist and resident artist and he was gracious enough to give my wife a mini course on painting. And that something that you can do as well when you visit the “Museo De Historia y Arte De Carolina”. You’ll get to make your own little piece of art and take it home with you!!!
On the way out there’s a small cafe where you can relax and enjoy genuine Puerto Rican coffee and pastries, as well a gift shop where you’ll find that perfect souvenir for the folks back home.
The museum has excellent guides (my wife and I can attest to that) that conduct tours both in Spanish and English. For more information call the Carolina Department of Tourism and Culture at 787–757-2626, ext 3903 and 3946.
Finally, If you liked this page, and you plan to visit Puerto Rico —and the town of Carolina— in the near future, you’ll find ample information on this website. You can also book flights, hotels & car rentals at great prices through the widgets on the right hand column.
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Enjoy Puerto Rico,
©2023,Orlando Mergal, MA
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