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Hacienda La Esperanza in Manatí, Puerto Rico

Published on January 27, 2015, by in Blog.
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La Casa Del Marquez, Hacienda La Esperanza, Manatí, Puerto Rico

La Casa Del Marquez, Hacienda La Esperanza, Manatí, Puerto Rico

Back in February of 2014 we visited “Las Cabezas de San Juan”, a 438 acre nature reserve run by the Puerto Rico Conservation Trust (Fideicomiso de Conservación de Puerto Rico).  This time my wife and I headed west towards the town of Manatí to visit Hacienda La Esperanza, a 2,220 acre property that was once a thriving sugar hacienda.

Hacienda La Esperanza is also run by the Puerto Rico Conservation Trust, and the experience this time was just as delightful.

Visitors must make reservations in advance.  No walk-ins are allowed.  I understand why they do this, but I also find it self serving in terms of customer service.  Furthermore, I find their website cumbersome and confusing.  If you don’t show up you’ll lose your money.  Entrance fees vary per tour.  We paid $12 per visitor plus a 7% tax.

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In any case, the Puerto Rico Conservation Trust’s URL is: https://reservaciones.paralanaturaleza.org/index.jsf and their telephone number is 787-722-5882.  You can also call the Hacienda directly at 787-854-2679 for more information and directions.

Other than these minor issues with their website the experience was a blast!!!

We were instructed to arrive at 1:00pm for a tour that was scheduled to start at 1:30pm.  We were also provided with releases that every visitor must sign before embarking on the tour.

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When you see this sign you’ll be almost there.
Click on image to see it larger.

Zoraida and I arrived exactly at 1:00pm.  A few minutes later our guide José arrived and introduced himself.  He was a young and pleasant man who proved to be quite knowledgeable throughout the tour.  The tour started at exactly 1:30pm with one guide and a party of six.

Hacienda La Esperanza is the largest property owned by the Puerto Rico Conservation Trust and, like its sister property in Fajardo, it is considered a natural reserve.  However, that’s where the similarities end.  Hacienda La Esperanza was one of Puerto Rico’s most important sugar haciendas during the 19th century.

The 19th century was peppered with economic ups and downs that had a direct effect on the Island’s social and economic realities.  In Europe, the Napoleonic Wars affected the movement of ships towards the colonies, which in turn had a negative effect on the movement of merchandize back to Europe.  This made it harder for the Spanish crown to collect taxes.

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In 1815 King Fernand the VII of Spain signed the Royal Decree of Grants (Real Cédula De Gracia) which allowed the Spanish colonies to trade with other European countries as well as with the United States.  This brought prosperity back to the colonies because it opened new markets; and —of course— it allowed the crown to collect its taxes.  It also allowed for the influx of tax-free machinery and tools which modernized production, increased efficiency and resulted in greater profits for the sugar barons of the time.

In Puerto Rico the 19th century was all about sugar and Hacienda La Esperanza was one of the places where it all happened.

During the first decade of the 19th century a retired Spanish soldier by the name of Don Fernando Fernández arrived in Puerto Rico.  He became a slave trader and lived his first years on the Island in the city of San Juan.  However, the economic downturn caused by the Napoleonic Wars was putting a dent in his business.

In 1827, after the Royal Decree of Grants, don Fernando saw the opportunity to develop a plot of land that he had received from the King of Spain in the town of Bayamón, about 25 west of San Juan.  He established Hacienda Santa Ana, a sugar hacienda that produced “Ron El Barrilito”, which is still considered one of Puerto Rico’s best rums today.

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Business was booming and Don Fernando decided to expand his operations.  He started exploring the north central region of the Island and arrived at the area that would eventually become Hacienda La Esperanza.  The land was humid, flat, fertile and next to a river.  This guaranteed natural irrigation as well as a means of transportation for his products.

The exact year when Don Fernando established Hacienda La Esperanza is not clear but it appeared in the 1840 edition of the Manatí Register of Haciendas; so it was established sometime during the 1830’s.

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La Casa Del Marquez. Click on image to see it larger.

Our first stop was at “La Casa Del Marquez” (the house of the Marquez).  Marquez was a Spanish nobility title that was below duke and above earl (more about why it was called this way in a while).

“La Casa Del Marquez” is an example of the opulence that characterized the families that traded in sugar, coffee and slaves during the 19th century in Puerto Rico.  The building itself isn’t an original.  That one was destroyed by Hurricane Georges in 1998.  But it’s an exact replica made with different materials.

Luckily, the Puerto Rico Conservation Trust hired an architect back in 1976 to produce detailed drawings of the original structure.  Later on, when it was destroyed, it was those drawings that allowed them to bring it back to its original splendor.  Even so, there were certain wood species used in the original structure, like “moralón”, “ortegón” and native mahogany that are protected today.  So instead the actual version was built with “capá prieto” for ceilings and floors, pine for interior and exterior siding and cedar for windows and doors.

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Interior of La Casa Del Marquez. Check out the “ausubo” columns. Click on image to see it larger.

And there’s still another feature that you shouldn’t miss.  Take a look at the building’s columns.  They’re made of ausubo, a wood so hard that you have drill it first before driving a nail into it.

Other interesting features inside “La Casa Del Marquez” are a collection of 389 machetes and a “paño de querellas” (cloth of complaints) that was donated by a group of weavers from the town of Moca on the western coast of the Island.

Machetes were the tool of the trade in a 19th century sugar hacienda.  But not all machetes were created equal.  The longer ones were called sables and they were used by the people in charge of “supervising” the slaves.  The shorter ones (called mochas) were used by the slaves to prevent them from hurting each other accidentally and from using them as weapons during a possible rebellion.  Finally, the curved variety was used in combination with a “garabato” (hook-shape piece of wood) to cut the “pangola” grass that grew next to the sugar cane.

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Machete collection. Click on image to see it larger.

None of the machetes that you’ll see at Hacienda La Esperanza were the originals used by the slaves.  However, they are original pieces collected by Puerto Rican archeologist Ovidio Dávila throughout the Caribbean.  They are exactly like the ones used by the slaves back in the 19th century.

Back in the 1800’s life was pretty tough for slaves living in sugar haciendas.  They lived in barracks, slept on the floor, bathed once a week and did their necessities in a whole in the barrack floor.  The stench was so bad that the building was erected down wind from “La Casa Del Marquez”.

The king of Spain was well aware that there had already been a slave rebellion in Haiti between 1791 and 1804.  Some countries were against slavery and others –like Spain— considered it perfectly “normal”.  So in 1826 the king created something called “el lamento” which established the exact rights and obligations for both slaves and slave owners.

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Paño de querellas. Click on image to see it larger.

If a slave felt like his “rights” had been violated he could bring the matter before the town major, who would listen to both parties and decide who was right.  Of course, most of the time the slave owner would be “right”, which is why the “paño de querellas” contains the only five complaints filed against Hacienda La Esperanza.  And just to give you a little taste of what it was like to be a slave during 19th century Puerto Rico here’s a short list of a slaves “rights”:

  • Two meals a day
  • Three changes of clothes a year
  • If a female slave became pregnant her baby would automatically be born a slave
  • The baby’s first name would be a catholic name
  • His/her last name would be his master’s
  • At the age of six he/she would start working
  • If a slave reached the age of 60 (which very few did) he/she would be granted freedom

Across a plot of land, about 100 yards long, is where the hacienda’s sugar mill (trapiche) was located.

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Blood sugar mill (trapiche de sangre). Click on image to see it larger.

Hacienda La Esperanza was a model of efficiency from the very beginning, albeit for a variety of reasons.  The original hacienda had a blood sugar mill (trapiche de sangre).  Some historians say that it was called that way because sometimes the slaves would get their arms caught in the rollers.  However, our guide José insisted that the real reason was because it was powered by slaves and oxen and not by any alternate form of energy.

José insisted that the later steam operated sugar mill could just as well be called a blood sugar mill because slaves got their arms caught in that one as well.

So, if the original sugar mill was powered by oxen and slaves, what made the original hacienda so efficient.  It was the sugar cane itself.  The sugar cane planted at Hacienda La Esperanza was brought all the way from the Island of Tahiti in the Pacific ocean.  It was called “Otaheiti” and it had three very important characteristics:

  • Better yield (between 1/4 and 1/3 more)
  • Better burning bagasse (it burned better and hotter)
  • It matured quicker, which allowed for more sugar crops a year

During the 1850’s the United States and Europe entered the sugar market.  The United States made it out of Maple trees and Europe out of sugar beets.  This saturated the market and brought the price of sugar down.  The only way to compete in such a market was to reach greater efficiencies and that’s exactly what happened at Hacienda La Esperanza.

The Old San Juan Walking Tour

But it was not Don Fernando who took the operation to the next level.  It was his son José Ramón Demetrio Fernández y Martínez (remember him?).  José Ramón was an educated man who had studied business administration in New York and London.  He was also willing to “bend the rules” every once in a while to achieve his objectives.

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Steam operated sugar mill manufactured in New York. Click on image to see it larger.

During the 1860’s he took over the hacienda and quadrupled production.  How did he do that?  Well, the first thing that he did was to get a loan from a bank in London. With that money he did two things:  he bought a small pier on the delta of the “Río Grande de Manatí”, on the northwest corner of Hacienda La Esperanza.  Then in 1861 he travelled to New York and bought a brand new steam-operated sugar mill.  Finally he had the pieces of the sugar mill delivered to his private port, brought up river to the hacienda and secretly assembled inside his production building.  Oh, and he didn’t pay any taxes for the machinery either.  What a guy!

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Steam operated sugar mill. Click on image to see it larger.

The new mill not only produced four times the yield but it also extracted all the juice from the sugar cane in one pass.  This resulted in drier bagasse that burned better.

In 1869 the hacienda was doing so well that Don Ramón was awarded the title of “Marquez De La Esperanza”, which is why the huge house on the property is called “La Casa Del Marquez”.

Sugar production at Hacienda La Esperanza was a unique process in which nothing was wasted.  Once the sugar cane went through the mill you were left with two byproducts: cane juice and bagasse.  The next step was called the “Jamaican Train”.

The truth is that it wasn’t actually a train.  It was called that way because it consisted of a series of kettles (peroles) that decreased in size and the process was invented in Jamaica.  The “Spanish Train” which preceded it used one furnace under every kettle while the “Jamaican Train” used one furnace underneath the smallest kettle and a duct that distributed the heat to all four kettles.  This resulted in a more efficient use of the bagasse.

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Original kettles from the Jamaican Train. Click on image to see it larger.

The cane juice would be poured into the furthest and largest kettle where it was brought up to a boil.  Once some of the water had evaporated the resulting syrup would be move to the next kettle using giant spoons.  This process would go on until the syrup reached the last (smallest) kettle and became molasses. From there it was removed and placed in giant cones where it was left to cool off and become muscovado sugar (raw sugar).

Of course, this last stage had its own perils.  Hot juice would frequently drip from the giant spoons burning the slave’s arms and legs.  That is why, even with all the hardships that came with cutting sugar cane in the fields, the slaves preferred it to working in the sugar mill or at the Jamaican Train.

During its golden era in 1870 Hacienda La Esperanza had 152 slaves, but in 1873 slavery was abolished in Puerto Rico and that spelled the end for the hacienda in 1880.  By then José Ramón had taken up gambling and he lost a great deal of his fortune.  The rest was seized by the bank that loaned him the money for the sugar mill.

Our tour ended at the Jamaican Train and we headed back to the parking lot.  On the way back there was something that caught my attention.  It was the absolute silence.  I could just imagine what that place must have been like back in the 1800’s and now you could barely hear an occasional bird.

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This is truly a place that everyone should visit.  Not only because it puts a lot of things that we usually take for granted into perspective, but because it gives us a rare glimpse into what life was like just a century and a half ago.  Besides, the steam operated sugar mill at Hacienda La Esperanza is in perfect operating order and it’s the only one of its kind left in the world!

Once again my hat goes off to the Puerto Rico Conservation Trust (Fideicomiso de Conservación de Puerto Rico).  Zoraida and I loved it!!!

©2015,Orlando Mergal, MA
____________________

Bilingual Content Creator, Blogger, Podcaster,
Author, Photographer and New Media Expert
Tel. 787-750-0000, Mobile 787-306-1590

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Disclosure of Material Connection: Some of the links in this post are “affiliate links.” This means that if you click on a link and purchase an item, I will receive an affiliate commission. Regardless, I only recommend products or services that I use personally and believe will add value to my readers. I am disclosing this in accordance with the Federal Trade Commission’s 16 CFR, Part 255: “Guides Concerning the Use of Endorsements and Testimonials in Advertising.”
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San Sebastian Street Fiestas… An Exercise in Dissonance

Published on January 13, 2015, by in Blog.
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Original Cabezudos. I shot this picture several years ago without knowing what I was shooting.

It’s almost that time of year, when people from all parts of the world converge in Old San Juan to celebrate “Las Fiestas De La Calle San Sebastian”, the largest street festival in the world taking place during the month of January.  But this time around there’s static in the air.  The organizing committee is fighting the mayoress and the mayoress is fighting the organizing committee.  Together they’re throwing away the baby with the bathwater.

Official Itinerary in Spanish. Click on image to see it larger.

Official Itinerary. Click on image to see it larger.

Here’s just one example.  A few minutes before writing this article I was trying to get a copy of this year’s itinerary.  That should be a simple enough task in an Internet connected world, right?  Wrong!!!  The only one available (obviously put together by the Municipal Government) doesn’t include the events that are under the purview of the Organizing Committee. And if you’re looking for one in English forget it.  That beast doesn’t exist!

Now, here are a couple of questions for the powers at be from both sides.  Isn’t Old San Juan the capitol of Puerto Rico?  Isn’t Old San Juan Puerto Rico’s crown jewel when it comes to tourism?  Shouldn’t the San Sebastian Street Fiestas be a tourist magnet like few others during the month of January?  Oh, and one last question… Isn’t January the peak of Puerto Rico’s tourist season?

Now, here’s something that makes no sense to me.  If the answer to all the above questions is yes, shouldn’t both sides stop trying to derail each other and work together for the sake of Puerto Rico?  Heaven knows that we need the tourism dollars and the worldwide exposure.

The Old San Juan Walking Tour

Last year you could cut the tension with a knife.  Each side was doing its thing but you could breathe the separateness.  It was all around you.  This year it’s gotten worse.  They even took the matter to court over patent and copyright issues.  Why is it that a group of Puerto Ricans can’t get together and work as a team?

Here’s a suggestion before I get off my soapbox.  Instead of going at each other’s throats, a few weeks before the event, why don’t they start the fighting in February and bicker all year long.  Maybe that way they’d hammer out a solution before next year and the world won’t be deprived of one of its most colorful events.

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Finally, this year there will only be only one “comparza” (cabezudo parade) with the original cabezudos, which ironically is the emblematic event that added color to the fiestas several times throughout each of the four days.  I obtained this information directly from a member of the organizing committee. It will take place on Thursday, January 15, around 5:00pm; right after cutting the inaugural ribbon.

OTHER ARTICLES ON PUERTO RICO BY GPS
ABOUT THE SAN SEBASTIAN STREET FIESTAS

The 2014 San Sebastian Street Fiestas Are Underway!
San Sebastian Street Fiestas 2014… Let The Party Begin!
Meet The Cabezudos… San Sebastian Street Fiestas 2014

©2015,Orlando Mergal, MA
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Bilingual Content Creator, Blogger, Podcaster,
Author, Photographer and New Media Expert
Tel. 787-750-0000, Mobile 787-306-1590

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Disclosure of Material Connection: Some of the links on this page are “affiliate links.” This means that if you click on a link and purchase an item, I will receive an affiliate commission. Regardless, I only recommend products or services that I use personally and believe will add value to my readers. I am disclosing this in accordance with the Federal Trade Commission’s 16 CFR, Part 255: “Guides Concerning the Use of Endorsements and Testimonials in Advertising.”
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Christmas In Puerto Rico

Published on December 24, 2014, by in Blog.
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Harvey Deegan Interview Click here to listen to the interview!

Sandman

Instead of a snowman you can make a sandman in 80° weather.

Today I had a unique experience. I spoke about Puerto Rican Christmas traditions to an audience that’s mostly on the other side of the planet. That’s right, this morning I had the rare opportunity to speak with Harvey Deegan, a radio personality with Radio 6PR in Perth, Western Australia.

This is the second time that I’ve been invited to speak to an Australian audience. The first time I spoke for close to an hour with Steve Collins, who produces a show called “Radio Roaming”. Click here if you would like to read the post and listen to that interview.

For many years I thought that the Puerto Rican Christmas season was the longest in the world, but Wikipedia proved me wrong. It’s actually the Philippines who holds that distinction. But who cares? I like our Christmas better. I guess you could say that I’m biased.

Like many other things in Puerto Rico Christmas brings together a variety of cultures and traditions. The Island was originally inhabited by the Taíno indians who had a predominantly vegetarian diet.

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With the Spaniards and the Africans came potatoes, plantains, olives, wheat, coconuts, sugar cane, pork, beef, chicken and a variety of spices like pepper, oregano and parsley.

And what about the American diet? That too has been greatly influential on the Puerto Rican diet but not so much when it comes to Christmas food. That’s mainly a mixture of Taíno, Spaniard and African influences.

roasted pork

Roasted Pork

Take for example the typical Christmas dinner. You can expect a big piece of roasted pork, rice with pigeon peas, blood sausage, pickled green bananas and “pasteles” (all on the same plate).

pasteles

Pasteles

“Pasteles” are made of “masa” and meat filling. “Masa” is made of grated “yautías” (a type of root that we inherited from the Taínos), green bananas, some green plantain (both of which we inherited from Africa) and pumpkin (which we inherited from Spain). Some people add a little bit of milk to make it smoother. The meat filling is made of stewed pork meat (also inherited from Spain). Finally, they are wrapped in banana leaves and boiled to perfection.

For dessert you can have some “arroz con dulce” (rice pudding), “tembleque” (a type of coconut pudding that has a consistency similar to jello) or “majarete” (a thick cream made of rice flour and coconut).

Arroz con dulce (Rice Pudding)

Arroz con dulce (Rice Pudding)

And to wash it all down you can simply have water, a regular soda or better yet some “coquito” (a thick white beverage made of coconut milk, cinnamon and rum). Most of the time your “coquito” will be made with one of the many legal rums that are produced on the Island, but if you’re really lucky it will be made with “pitorro” the illegal variety that always seems to surface during the Christmas season.

coquito

Coquito

So how long is Christmas in Puerto Rico? Well, it’s basically two months long. It all kicks off on Thanksgiving Day and ends with the San Sebastian Street Fiestas on the third weekend of January.

Thanksgiving Day is a wonderful tradition that Puerto Ricans inherited from the United States when they invaded the Island in 1898. Of course, islanders have “puertoricanized” the bird quite a bit. They season it with salt, pepper and oregano, and many stuff it with “mofongo” (mashed plantains with garlic and “chicharrón” (roasted hog’s lard)). Yum!

The period between Thanksgiving Day and “Nochebuena” (Christmas Eve) is when Puerto Ricans tend to show how “Americanized” they really are. One such American tradition that has really caught on in Puerto Rico is Black Friday, in which people stand in line for hours to be among the first to enter the department store of their choice at midnight. Personally I find that this practice is irrational and it exemplifies one of the ugliest sides of capitalism.

santa-clausDecember is all about Santa. The jolly old guy really takes over the stores and many people fall prey to the Christmas craze. Plastic runs wild during this period and you can expect crowded stores, long lines and very few parking spaces.

But all this craze is on the commercial front. On the “people” front it’s a totally different story. Puerto Ricans love to party and Christmas is when they do it the most.

One tradition that refuses to die is “parrandas” in which a group of friends (many of which are musicians) gets together to visit other friends and family all through the night and wake them to the tune of Puerto Rican Christmas music. Personally, I play the guitar, and I used to participate in “parrandas” quite a lot when I was a young man. But the proliferation of gated communities in the San Juan Metroplex has taken its toll on “parrandas” (there’s no longer the element of surprise) and today they mainly take place in the smaller inner island towns.

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Even so, Christmas is a time when friends and family get together to eat Christmas food, drink (sometimes more than they should), listen to music and enjoy the company of good people.

New Years EveAfter Christmas day the next big event is New Year’s Eve and New Year’s Day. There’s nothing very different here except one thing: some people find it amusing to shoot their weapons into the sky and —as you might imagine— this has led to random injuries in the past.

Normally other tourism blogs might not mention this sort of thing because they fear it might scare tourists away. But remember, in Puerto Rico By GPS we tell it like it is. I should also say that the Island’s government has taken a firm stance against this practice and in recent years it has been a lot less prevalent.

Even so, in Puerto Rico most houses are made of concrete and I have always insisted that every member of my family spend the last half hour of the year and the first half hour of the coming year under a concrete roof.

The Three Wise Men

The Three Wise Men

The first six days of January lead to the celebration of “El Día De Los Tres Reyes Magos” (the three wise men day). Puerto Rico inherited this tradition from Spain and it has been an official holiday since 1885. It has its origins in the Old Testament and the story of the group of distinguished foreigners who visited Jesus after his birth, bearing gifts of gold, frankincense and myrrh.

This tradition is also an official holiday in Spain and in other Latin American countries like Mexico, the Dominican Republic, Paraguay, Uruguay, Colombia and Venezuela.

By this time of year most Americans will be back at work trying to get rid of those extra pounds that they gained during the Christmas season. Many Puerto Ricans will also be trying to lose weight but there will still be plenty of partying going on.

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San Sebastian Street Fiestas. Click on image to see it larger.

After January 6th Christmas is officially over in Puerto Rico but many Islanders squeeze in eight more days that they call “las octavitas”. Like many other Christmas traditions on the Island “las octavitas” have their roots in Catholic faith but today they’ve simply evolved into one more reason to party.

And then there’s “Las Fiestas De La Calle San Sebastian”. This four day event brings together thousands and thousands of people on a one-lane street in Old San Juan. “Las Fiestas De La Calle San Sebastian” were started by father Juan Manuel Madrazo and Mrs. Rafaela Balladares as a fundraiser for the “Colegio de Párvulos”, a small school on the western end of San Sebastian Street.

The Old San Juan Walking Tour

Later on it grew into what it is today: an artisan fair with food, lots of alcoholic beverages, music and so many people that it’s even hard to walk. You simply move with the masses. It has become the largest outdoor event in the world taking place during the month of January.

So there you have it. It all starts with an innocent turkey and it grows and grows into one of the largest parties in the world. And all this with an average temperature of 80° Farenheit. Isn’t it great!

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So if you’re looking for a place to have some fun in the sun this Christmas, instead of enduring those nasty cold fronts that the weatherman is forecasting, come over to sunny Puerto Rico.

Merry Christmas,

©2014,Orlando Mergal, MA
____________________

Bilingual Content Creator, Blogger, Podcaster,
Author, Photographer and New Media Expert
Tel. 787-750-0000, Mobile 787-306-1590

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